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Stucco - what to look for?

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  • RTP
    Freshie
    • Nov 2007
    • 36

    #1

    Stucco - what to look for?

    Hi all


    What are the main issues to be aware of when buying a 1920s stucco house? It’s in Auckland.


    I looked at the house on Sunday and it goes to auction tomorrow. I wouldn't normally buy without a building inspection, but it’ll be very hard to get one done as the house is tenanted (and the inspector wouldn’t be able to see much as the rooms are piled high with the tenant’s junk!).


    I’d be relatively comfortable that a 1920s house would be solid but when I google “stucco” it does come up with a few references to leaky buildings. Surely 1920s stucco is a very different beast to 1990s plaster cladding?


    Is it hard/expensive to repaint the exterior? (it needs doing)


    Any comments would be appreciated! Thanks!
  • jimO
    Fanatical
    • Sep 2011
    • 1763

    #2
    look for cracks, bulging walls if its plastered over expanding metal or laths, the expanding metal was reinforcing "like chicken wire" is now and wasnt galvanised, if its been standing all this time it should be fine, was it origionally plastered or was it plastered over weatherboard later??

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    • eri
      Fanatical
      • Sep 2008
      • 7621

      #3
      what's under the stucco?

      bricks - good

      or timber - maybe not so good

      there should be ventilation window? around the foundations

      if they show the walls to be close to a foot thick - should be brick

      if half that, 15cm - probably wood
      have you defeated them?
      your demons

      Comment

      • learningInProgress
        Freshie
        • Jan 2016
        • 63

        #4
        if you are looking for "art deco" kind of house. most likely it's not gona be insulated. check for underneath the floor look for a sign of rotten timber. if the stucco cracks, water can easily seep in and decaying the timber. look for window flashing for sign of water penetration.

        I went under contract for an art deco house. during building inspection we identified major issues with the decaying timber structure due to the cracks from the external cladding. the inspector said you need to fix the cladding before even bother to fix the structure. we decided to walk away

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        • RTP
          Freshie
          • Nov 2007
          • 36

          #5
          Thanks everyone.

          From your comments and another look at the house I think this one looks ok... and I think it's stucco over brick (not over weatherboards). I'm still a little unsure buying without a proper inspection, but will set my maximum accordingly

          Thanks again for your comments - much appreciated!

          Comment

          • jimO
            Fanatical
            • Sep 2011
            • 1763

            #6
            Originally posted by RTP View Post
            Thanks everyone.

            From your comments and another look at the house I think this one looks ok... and I think it's stucco over brick (not over weatherboards). I'm still a little unsure buying without a proper inspection, but will set my maximum accordingly

            Thanks again for your comments - much appreciated!
            if its over brick it will have reveals around the windows if over timber the windows will be flush with the wall.....put a pick up and we can let you know

            Comment

            • John the builder
              Fanatical
              • Nov 2013
              • 2297

              #7
              Surely 1920s stucco is a very different beast to 1990s plaster cladding?
              It is also likely that the stucco is all that is holding up the 1920's house?

              The difference is we are more tolerant of crap older buildings and accept their condition.

              When the fad for stucco came back after the WWII there was a spate of buildings with dodgy plaster that usually presented as rot in the bottom meter of the framing due to wicking from the ground. The 1990's was supposed to be an improvement but the truth is it still didn't stop the basic issue which is that an absorbent cladding is not a good idea direct fixed on a timber frame (even on a backer board) that isn't treated sufficiently. (and with a cavity that works to drain and dry the inevitable leaks.) the system is flawed. Add that to high risk features?? i.e. parapets no eaves decks....

              design is important too, if the wall doesn't get wetted (in every passing shower) then it follows it doesnt leak either so bring back eaves....otherwise just make sure you dont pay too much for them.
              Last edited by John the builder; 19-07-2016, 02:09 PM.

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