Any thoughts on painting the panels John? Have you seen this done and look good at end result?
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Gib a Lockwood style house
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no problem painting but cant say I have done this
is it grooved panel or boards? There was a grooved veneered hardboard common in the 80's?
use gap filler on the joints if required but be careful if polyurethane/varnish as paint may not stick. Check with paint manufacturer?
but it will only be painted T and G look? but better than tired golden boards as above?
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It's pine panel, quite good quality. The timber has nice grain. Two painters that I had quote the job told me outright not to paint it out!
I thought I'd have to sand it right back but the resene guy put me onto this product which can go right over the old varnish. Game changer! Will save me hours of grief sanding. Check out the product people. It is a dream come true. I've done a test panel and it has good adherence.
Yes - T and G look. We're sick of the 80's golden boards look I'm afraid.
Did varnish in the 80's have lead in it?“Our favorite holding period is forever.”
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Originally posted by donthatetheplayer View PostI've got a second lounge / family room in this style. I'm looking to paint it with a resene whitewash paint designed to go straight over the old varnish. Has anyone done this?
The finish will be a semi-translucent white. I can do a second coat for a fuller white but I want to still be able to see the grain of the timber. Just in a white rather than yellow.
We haven't sanded the walls but gave it a really good clean with detergent and treated with Wet & Forget. Left it to dry for a day or two and did 2 coats of undercoat/primer and 3 coats of paint. Love the look and finish. 2 years it no problems, paint looks like new. As house is lockwood and it does breath and move I can see slight openings at 2 or three spots at the very top where walls meet ceiling (... but that is everything and you wouldn't notice those if you didn't do the job in the first place..
Light colours work best, I'd go white inside, can go light pastels in kids rooms and kitchen. Don't do gloss, I think gloss will not look as good but I might be wrong. If you've got external wood elements can go darker colours there. Just do a search for "lockwood painted" on Google or Houzz and look at some photos.
Was a bit hesitant about painting lockwood at first, but went looked at various pictures and projects done by others and decided to give it a go. Done painting, some custom wooden shelving above shower and full length glass shelf above vanity, some DIY lights over mirror, some DIY towel rails, thrown some not very expensive but good looking vinyl (coved skirting for ease of clean), some nautical decor.... Before, during and after photos are HERE (might not be in order). These aren't professional and aren't photoshopped but I am satisfied with the result. Never looked back and never had any regrets.Last edited by MAXNZ; 28-05-2015, 03:55 PM.
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Originally posted by John the builder View Postlead was used as a pigment so varnish wont have it.
old varnish will be flacky and sands easily and then paint over as recommended but as long as the paint keys to the old varnish you are fine“Our favorite holding period is forever.”
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Originally posted by MAXNZ View PostDon't listen to anyone who says DON'T PAINT! I live in lockwood house and recently renovated the bathroom (actually about 1.5 years ago). Had a horror blue bath and ugly vanity. Replaced vanity and bath, painted all walls white matte (not washed white) and it still looks brilliant. White gives it clean and fresh look for once, and most importantly it fills the room with light.. it sort of looks like french country, nordic or nautical style, so any decor matching these will go really well with it. Used water based bathroom undercoat/primer and paint from Bunnings. Can't remember brand, it had light greenish label and was positioned as mould resistant or anti-mould paint. Planning on doing whole house one day...
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Very keen on this resene paint with just one coat! Not too keen on the 5 coats you did. Good effort. I'll let you know how it shapes up.“Our favorite holding period is forever.”
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Hi grip. It's resene colorwood. I'm going whitewash. It's this stuff.http://m.resene.co.nz/Colorwood.htm
The resene guy don't me you don't need to sand timber first. After a trial panel I'd recommend a light sand and good clean for maximum adhesion. I sanded and cleaned yesterday and I'm painting next week. Will let you know how it goes.“Our favorite holding period is forever.”
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Thanks Don Just reading through the instructions on that page it says- If the surface has been previously varnished/painted it is important that this has been thoroughly stripped and any traces of stripper and/or old coating have been removed before staining. Any remaining coating will cause inconsistencies.
Curious to see how you go. So far everyone who have painted have sanded back and done the traditional thing.
Would've thought the original dark yellow stain would show through the new stain. what colour are you going with?
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Check this out grip.https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&so...sudAsl7Uu-0xbA
Don't have to remove old varnish unless it's flaking. Definitely go into a resene store and talk to them. The mitre 10 guys don't know.“Our favorite holding period is forever.”
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Originally posted by donthatetheplayer View PostCheck this out grip.https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&so...sudAsl7Uu-0xbA
Don't have to remove old varnish unless it's flaking. Definitely go into a resene store and talk to them. The mitre 10 guys don't know.
I saw a lockwood done in this fashion recently, the finish of the actual timber was not quite but nearly acceptable. What spoiled it was the dark, irregular gaps between the boards. It was enough to put me off buying the house, too much work to put it right.
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Originally posted by Aston View PostDon the player,
I saw a lockwood done in this fashion recently, the finish of the actual timber was not quite but nearly acceptable. What spoiled it was the dark, irregular gaps between the boards. It was enough to put me off buying the house, too much work to put it right.
I would've thought you're much better off painting over the gaps rather than filling them in (which will crack due to movement etc)
If in fact you can do one quote this is indeed a revolutionary product.
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OK. I've done a bit of painting with this product. I have found it very difficult to use. It goes on well in long flat runs but is very difficult to get right in corners. It tends to run and you end up with messy looking corners - well, I have at least. On the tin it says usually only one coat required. One coat barely makes a difference as it is very translucent. I have done two coats and this is about right for a decent whitewash that you can still see the grain of the wood through.
Not sure I can recommend the product. It does what it says and gives a whitewash look but you need to be pretty handy with a paintbrush to get a decent finish. If I was doing up to sell I wouldn't use this product. For my home, I am happy with it because it's in the kids "play room" and we wanted a relaxed feel. Also, will be easy to paint over when the kids are older and we want a change.
I think it would look better on raw timber rather than old varnish also. If I was to compare it to something I'd say it's a bit like a sealer if you've ever used that. So a bit white but very translucent.
Also, no dark and/or irregular gaps. The tongue and groove joins look fine with this product. Paint does tend to run down them though so you need to be thorough when applying so as to avoid this.“Our favorite holding period is forever.”
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thanks Don. sounds complex. i would probably use a professional painter.
what do you mean when you say if you were doing up to sell you wouldn't use the product? is that because of price given you need 2 coats to cover up the old varnish?
would be great if you can post some before/after photos. it's hard to imagine how it looks like when done.
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