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  • Investing away from home

    We are a young couple just starting out, rather then saving a deposit for our first home we have decided to use this money to invest in rental property(s) instead. Because we are average earners affordability limits us in regards to where we should be looking.
    Over the past year we have looked at Whangarei, Hamilton and Rotorua. The way it is right now we are leaning towards Rotorua. What we have found difficult is getting information regarding which areas best to invest in.

    I was curious to see how other investors find their information regarding this. We have contacted several agents and sellers also council and read as much as we could. Most of the responses we get say "the price reflects what the area is".

    Our strategy is to follow this by Orion as this is the amount we have saved.

    What Could You Do with $60,000 cash? 2015.

    This question was asked to 5 of us for the NZ Property Investors’ magazine for an article.
    Below is my answer to it, however it was only supposed to be 400 words, so here it is in full:-

    With $60,000 in cash, there’s quite a lot you could do without too much risk.
    However it does depend a lot though on your strategy, your plan, your own financial intelligence, and how risky you are as an investor.
    Lots of people use risky strategies that will most likely cost them everything in the long run. They try to pick which area to invest in, in other words - what locations they think will go up in value. They invest with assumptions, hopes and wishful thinking, not with logic and common sense.
    It doesn’t even come into my thinking as to what I think will happen with prices, as it has no relevance to me. It only has any relevance if you want, expect, or hope that prices will go up, i.e. strategies that rely on that happening for your plan to work.
    I don’t ever know what’s going to happen, and neither does anybody else know. Also I don’t care if property prices go up, down or stay the same for the next 20 years. My strategy and plan will work in all markets.

    Last year I bought 20 rentals effectively using no money and they were still cashflow positive on 20 year P & I mortgages. So with $60,000 cash there are safe options to use if you have the experience.

    What I would do is look for properties that were suitable as rentals, with yields of 10% or so in locations such as Hawkes Bay, possibly Rotorua, Wainuiomata and maybe Feilding. I know you can get good quality, good location and easy to rent properties in Hawkes Bay with those yields, and I’m pretty sure with some looking around I could find them in those other areas as well. I would rule out Auckland, not because of the 30% deposit rule and the fact you could only buy something up to $300k there if you could still use a 20% deposit, but because the yields are way too low. It doesn’t make sense to buy there and the only reason people do accept such minimal yields, is they think that prices will keep going up. That may or may not happen and I never base investing decisions on what could be. To do so would be very risky, plus you would have to top up the mortgages as well.
    Knowing Hawkes Bay so well, I would look for something I could buy below market value and either, add value to it, or rent as it is. For example, let’s say a property was worth $170k and I bought it for $150k. I would initially borrow $120k (80% of the purchase price). This would use half of the $60k cash ($150k - $120k = $30k). This property would easily rent for $300p.w. and the mortgage on a 20 year P & I loan would be about $180 a week. Rates, insurance and property management would be another $70 a week or so, leaving it cashflow positive by $50 a week (not including any maintenance).
    So, you could use the other $30k to do the same and you would have 2 properties being paid off in full by the tenants in 20 years. You would have a cashflow of about $100 a week, which should more than cover any maintenance.
    What I would do is look for another one asap and do the same. And, because I bought so well, I would look to refinance them as quickly as I could to give me back as much of the initial deposit as I could. As I said last year, I did this on 20 properties and because they were bought so well, I ended up not using any equity at all.
    In this case though, let’s say the first property valued up to $170k. The bank after 3 – 6 months should allow you (or immediately after any renovations etc) to refinance your original loan, providing you get a registered valuation from a valuer that the bank has on their approved list. If it values to say $170k, the bank will let you borrow 80% of that - which is now $136,000. This would cost another $20 or so a week in mortgage payments, but you would still be cashflow positive. You have now used effectively only $14k of your original $60k. ($30k minus the $16k given back by refinancing: - $136k - $120k).
    Using this with the same figures you could buy 4 properties (4 x $14k = $56k). You will now see by buying even better, or having the valuation work more in your favour (valuations can vary hugely!) you may need a lot less equity per property than even this. I would be looking to buy at 20% below what I know I could get them to value to, which would mean I’m not using any of the $60k cash at all, after they are refinanced. You need to allow some for maintenance though, so I think you could comfortably buy 10 properties this way (end result of $6k equity used per property) and be okay.
    With the 20 properties I bought last year, so far the maintenance on these works out to be an average of about $1,000 a month total over the 20 properties.

    To show how it would look using $6k equity each time, it would be something like this: -
    Purchase price $145,000.
    Initial deposit (20%) $29,000.
    Revalue several months later to $174,000.
    Bank will lend 80% of that which is $139k.
    In effect, $6,000 equity used ($145k - $139k).

    One important thing to me is if you do refinance like this, don’t ever refinance them again after that! Let them just sit there with all the mortgages reducing over time until all of them are paid off in full. A common mistake a lot of people make is refinancing their investment properties (and often their own home!) when the market goes up. They use the extra equity to buy more, sometimes refinancing several times and never bringing their debt to equity ratio down. This is a recipe for disaster which has already cost hundreds of investors in New Zealand everything they’ve worked for and built up, by thinking the market always goes up. It doesn’t 

    So in summary, let’s say I ended up buying the 10 rental properties using $6k equity for each, and they all had a market value of say $150k. That would be $1.5 million (10 x $150k properties) worth of property purchased using the initial $60k of equity. The tenants will have paid off all the mortgages after 20 years.
    At that stage any upward movement in prices would have been a bonus - if you did want to sell any of the properties, otherwise you would have around $10k a month in rent after all expenses coming in from 10 freehold rental properties.
    Another way to look at it is this - the original $60,000 cash has been used as leverage using other people’s money and other people’s time to create wealth for you. That’s something you wouldn’t have been able to do if you had to pay off all of the10 properties by yourself, using your own wages/income.
    So, after all the mortgages have been paid off, you’d be getting your original $60,000 you invested back in rent every 6 months, and still have 10 properties!
    Be interested in any advice or if there are any of you investing in Rotorua what your thoughts are.

    Thanks for your time.

  • #2
    Pick Hamilton over Rotorua any day Phoenix. Despite the apparent attraction of Orions strategy owning houses in average to bad towns can be headache and not a great wealth creation strategy. Hamilton is a much better bet IMHO. I own property in Rotorua it is pain in the proverbial.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Damap View Post
      Pick Hamilton over Rotorua any day Phoenix. Despite the apparent attraction of Orions strategy owning houses in average to bad towns can be headache and not a great wealth creation strategy. Hamilton is a much better bet IMHO. I own property in Rotorua it is pain in the proverbial.
      Thanks Damap,

      Could you give an example of why your property there is such a pain? is it in regards to bad tenants or council or maintenance.
      Sorry to ask so much but yes we were interested in Hamilton the most, but over the last year prices have gone up. We only have about $60,000 for a deposit. We are looking to be active investors hoping to do it fulltime within the next 2 years so our strategy would include trading. We thought if we get our feet wet with cheaper properties (maybe less risk).

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      • #4
        Originally posted by PhoenixDev View Post
        Thanks Damap,

        Could you give an example of why your property there is such a pain? is it in regards to bad tenants or council or maintenance.
        Sorry to ask so much but yes we were interested in Hamilton the most, but over the last year prices have gone up. We only have about $60,000 for a deposit. We are looking to be active investors hoping to do it fulltime within the next 2 years so our strategy would include trading. We thought if we get our feet wet with cheaper properties (maybe less risk).
        You most likely won't get the yields enough to cover your costs in Hamilton unless you get very lucky with your buying.
        I've had one in Rotorua which was in a good location which was sold a month or so ago (was bought as a trade 3 years ago) and was a good rental.
        A friend of mine has also just bought one there with approx. 9% yield in a good area. There are some areas you need to keep away from I think it's called Fordlands but should be able to find something in Rotorua if you're patient.

        Don't listen to others about locations such as Rotorua not being a wealth creation strategy, it's just garbage.

        All locations of 100,000+ population average out over the years, so there is no difference over time with price increases, if there are any. Just don't rely on it buying anywhere as there is no need to.

        The main thing with that strategy I wrote about is the better you can buy below market value (or what a valuer will value the property to) the better it will work, and the less equity you will use. Just need to be aware that you will most likely need 9%+ yield to cover costs unless you finance over a longer term than 20 years.
        Facebook Property Chat Group NZ
        https://www.facebook.com/groups/340682962758216/

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        • #5
          Phoenix, Damap may be offering his opinion against Rotorua due to possible higher vacancy rates in Rotorua than in larger centres? (Have heard of similar issues from people at the local APIA meetings who own properties in Rotorua)

          Orion - I like your thinking and your experience sounds highly valuable to where I'm looking to head! Currently only own one property (Panmure, near Mt Wellington, in Auckland), and looking to get into investing full time once i can build sufficient yield from numerous properties. What specific advice have you got for purchasing under market value? Have read plenty about looking for properties that you can add value to, identifying up and coming suburbs etc., but how do you specifically look at a property and can instantly tell the property's under valued? Do you always carry out a valuation on the property to help paint a better picture?

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          • #6
            If you plan to be full time in property later, my suggestion would be to buy as close to home as possible and manage it yourself while learning the ropes, Even if that means saving a bit longer or scaling down expectations (eg size, condition).

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mjbayly View Post
              Phoenix, Damap may be offering his opinion against Rotorua due to possible higher vacancy rates in Rotorua than in larger centres? (Have heard of similar issues from people at the local APIA meetings who own properties in Rotorua)

              Orion - I like your thinking and your experience sounds highly valuable to where I'm looking to head! Currently only own one property (Panmure, near Mt Wellington, in Auckland), and looking to get into investing full time once i can build sufficient yield from numerous properties. What specific advice have you got for purchasing under market value? Have read plenty about looking for properties that you can add value to, identifying up and coming suburbs etc., but how do you specifically look at a property and can instantly tell the property's under valued? Do you always carry out a valuation on the property to help paint a better picture?


              Vacancy rates are a supply and demand thing, not how big the city is.
              You may get very bad streets etc that may be more problematic to rent. But overall, if a property is in a reasonable location in any city, it will rent if there are more tenants looking than there are places available to rent.
              This can change throughout the year at times depending on a few things, and again usually balances out.
              In NZ approx 35% of people rent and it is much the same in each city in NZ. 30 -40 years ago, it was around 30 - 32% of people renting, so has changed a little over time.

              Buying under market value comes from experience, contacts, knowing the market well etc.
              Read the article in the ‘sticky’ section called Lucky and it may help.
              Unless you have quite a bit of experience and contacts, it is more difficult to do and some people just don’t like to negotiate, especially privately.

              To give you an example of one this weekend, someone I know asked me to negotiate a price on a property for them as they didn’t want to do this with the owner.
              They have in the past paid in reality way more than they needed to or sold for less than what they could have got.
              I called a couple of agents I know (it’s in a place outside where I live) in the area and realised it was a good deal already at the price he was asking.
              The person gave me a price they were willing to go up to and I know they would have paid even more and very close to what the vendor was wanting. After half an hour of talking on the phone and negotiating, we agreed on a price that the person I was helping was extremely happy with. They would have most likely paid 15 – 20% above what I negotiated the price for and still thought they got a great deal. It’s not something a beginner will be able to do (in most cases) as there are many techniques in negotiating and a lot of it comes from experience, knowing what to say, knowing what to research, knowing how to guide the conversation, knowing when to talk and knowing when to be silent. There’s a good section on negotiating in my book I will put below for you to have a read of if you haven't read it already.
              So negotiating is a big part of it, and also the team of people you have around you to help, or as a back up for opinions etc.
              Read the 'Lucky' article I think it will help.

              How Do I Negotiate Well, When Buying Houses?
              You will, no doubt, develop your own techniques and strategies that suit you over time, but these are the steps that I do in the majority of offers (not mortgagee sales, tenders or multiple offers on the same property) on houses. Some of these points are covered to some degree previously.
              1) Know as accurately as possible what the true market price is for the house. This comes only from the experience of looking at many houses in the price range, and in a similar location.
              2) Know what the top price you are willing to pay is.
              3) See if you can find out any clues as to how motivated the vendor is, and also what they may be prepared to accept.
              Make your first offer 3 - 5%* below what your top price is, that you have set for yourself. Have several conditions in this offer such as subject to finance, valuation, title search, LIM (Land Information Memorandum) report etc. Don’t have too many conditions to start off with though, if you can avoid it. When the vendor counter-signs your offer, you will often know how negotiable they are by the price they have counter-signed at.
              * When I say 3 —5 % below your top offer, I do mean this exactly. Your top offer must still be at a good buying price, but it is done on houses with motivated sellers only. So many beginning investors will either read a book or go to a course where they are told to make hundreds of offers on houses for 20%, 25% or even more below the asking price or the market value, and see if you get any offers accepted. If not, go out and do it again until you get one accepted. In other words, throw enough mud at the wall and see if any sticks. Unfortunately, if you throw mud in this way, all that will happen is you’ll get a dirty name with all the agents. If I did that in the area I live in, with only a few good agents to work with, I would have to resort to buying private sales only. No agent would ever deal with me. In the early days, when I was still searching for a few good agents to work with, some agents would still get upset with me. They would call me about houses with highly motivated vendors, and try to give me some indication (they are obviously working to get the best price for the vendor, and so can’t reveal too much) of what it might possibly sell for, if I was interested in making any offers. And then, when the vendor refused the offers and got annoyed at the sales person for presenting them, the sales person would get annoyed with me! If you get an agent like this, move on until you find someone more suitable. Most agents are more suited to the average Joe Blow buyer looking for a house for themselves to live in, and not dealing with investors like me. Sometimes, you’ve got to kiss a lot of frogs to find one prince. But, once you find them, keep them on your side and look after them. The other mistake beginners often make is submitting just one offer and refusing to increase it if the vendor counter-signs their offer. In other words, if the offer is not accepted the first time, they walk away. By doing this, they will not buy many properties either. The vendor wants to see some movement, or flexibility with your offers, even if it is only a few thousand dollars. If they don’t see any flexibility from you, why should they be flexible? So, rather than going in immediately with your best offer, make your first offer 3 - 5% below what your top price would be, and work up in small increments if you need to. I use the exact same strategy when selling houses too: that is, start a few thousand dollars above what I’ll accept, and adjust my offers down accordingly from there.
              4) If the counter-sign was, in your opinion, fairly reasonable, add $2000 - $3000 to your offer with the same conditions as before. If all is going well, the vendor will make a larger drop in price than what your small increase was.
              5) Put in your top price (another $1000 - $2000 higher) and make it cash! Delete all your clauses and make the offer cash. Sometimes I will also put in a time that the offer will expire, if not accepted; eg, “This offer will be withdrawn if not accepted by the vendor before 4pm Wednesday” (the following day). Now, before you rush away and do any of this, you naturally need to know that your finance is already approved, the valuation will be fine, the title is okay, and that you are happy that the LIM is okay. I do all this before I make the first offer. By negotiating this way, you are making your offer more attractive to the vendor with each counter-sign you do. You are also showing the vendor that you are willing to be flexible, to move on your price, and that you are a serious buyer.

              This technique has helped me buy more than 90 houses in the last four years. By buying each property on average for about $15,000 below market price each time, this soon adds up to a large sum of money that is added to my overall net worth. This was achieved simply by negotiating well at the time I was buying each property.

              When doing the investment seminars, I often did an exercise on negotiating the sale of a property for the participants. This was to see how well they could negotiate, and to improve their negotiating skills. Typically it would be the same figures on a house that I had bought for a very good price. An example is a property that was originally on the market for $119,000, the true market price was around $105,000 and my purchase price was $87,000. I would put up the vendor’s asking price as $119,000 on the flipchart or a whiteboard. The room was then divided into partners, with both buyers and sellers. One group (“the buyers”) is told to leave the room. These buyers are then all told that this is the investment property they have been searching for and it is all they want in a property. It is exactly what they want and they are prepared to pay the full $119,000 to buy it if they have to, but make sure they do buy it! Anything less than a price of $119,000 is a saving for them. At the same time, “the vendors” still sitting back in the room are all told that they must sell the same property urgently, as it is close to being a mortgagee sale. If they do not sell, they will be forced into bankruptcy and lose everything. They need to get at least $87,000 for the house just to break even: any price they can negotiate above this is money they will have to start over again with. So they must try to negotiate a price as high as they can, but make sure that they do sell. Once the sellers and the buyers are back together with their negotiating partner, I give them a minute or two to negotiate the best price they possible can. Once they have agreed on a price, they must write it down and both sign it. With such a broad price range that the house could be sold in (between $87,000 and $119,000) with both the vendor and the purchaser being happy anywhere in this range, it is very rare that an agreement on price is not reached in this time. Once the minute is up, I would ask ‘who managed to sell their property for $119,000?’ Occasionally there was a vendor that had managed to get the full asking price, even though they had to sell, and were willing to sell for as low as $87,000. I would ask ‘are you both happy with the price?’ to which they both nodded. I then asked ‘is there anyone that managed to buy the same property at less than that, say for around $110,000?’ More hands went up and both the vendor and purchaser were happy with the price. Then I asked ‘did anyone buy the house for even less than this, say around $100,000?’ Again, more people raised their hands. I would then ask the people that paid $110,000 or more for the same house if they were still happy with the amount they paid, knowing that other purchasers paid less than they did. I would also ask the vendors if they were happy now - knowing that others paid $110,000 or more, when they accepted only $100,000 for this same house. Now there would be not so many happy negotiators in the room. At the end, I would say ‘did anyone somehow buy the house for even less than $100,000?’ There were always a few that do, and when the other buyers found that out, they were even less happy with what they agreed to pay. I asked the vendors what they were willing to take for the house, and they all said ‘$87,000.’ The buyers would look at each other—often in disbelief! I also asked the purchasers what they were willing to pay, to which they all answered ‘$119,000.’ I would say to them ‘who made the first offer; was it the buyer or the seller?’ In this case, who ever suggested the first price was often the one that lost in the negotiation. For example, the vendor might say ‘Okay, how much will you pay for the house?’ The buyer, knowing that he/she is prepared to pay $119,000, might say a figure of anywhere between $100,000 and $119,000. When the vendor hears this figure, they cannot believe their luck, as they were willing to sell for as low as $87,000. The vendor will often agree immediately to their offer (which can make the buyer somewhat suspicious), or settle on a figure slightly higher again. If, however, the buyer had said ‘Well, how much are you prepared to sell it to me for? What is your bottom price?’ Now things could have been very different. The vendor, knowing they must sell the property for at least $87,000, may say, ‘We may go down to about $95,000, but not too much lower than that, as it is a good house.’ The buyer now cannot believe their luck, as they were prepared to pay up to $119,000 for the house. A price is usually agreed upon near the $95,000 mark. The point to learn from this exercise is that ‘the first person to name a price usually loses!’ Of course, it is not always possible to do this when buying investment property, unless you are buying privately. You can however use it in any of the situations mentioned above when buying other negotiable items. If you name the price first, you are always in the weaker position—always.
              In summary, remember that you make your profit when you buy, not when you sell. You also make your loss when you buy—if you do not buy well.
              In time, you will develop your own ways of negotiating that suit your personality and your style, but the main point to remember is to start practising today.
              Facebook Property Chat Group NZ
              https://www.facebook.com/groups/340682962758216/

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              • #8
                I've just realised after reading this again now that is a very basic guide to negotiating and there are many more techniques which come in useful in so many occasions. Maybe I will have to write another book at some stage
                Facebook Property Chat Group NZ
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                • #9
                  Phoenix if you are a new investor those smaller towns will drive you crazy. Hard to find good property managers, quality of tenants generally poor and low or no capital growth. Rotorua specifically has very high rates which is also a pain. The bad parts of Hamilton will out perform Rotorua any day. Population growth drives values largely that's why areas like Rotorua are not the smartest place to buy if you can avoid it. Better than nothing but not good.

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                  • #10
                    Appreciate the advice from you all.

                    Orion wow lot's to think about and will continue reading those sticky's, and yes another book sounds good
                    And I will build that experience. I also took on board what you said about supply and demand, from what I understand so far about Rotorua there is quite a demand for rentals. The only thing that I do worry about is Rotorua's growth which is why we initially chose Hamilton. However, we will be back in Rotorua next weekend to investigate further, going to a few open homes will give us a chance to talk to some agents, I find communicating by email for example not very effective at all.

                    Damap, thank you also, sounds as though you really don't like Rotorua. When you say even the bad parts of Hamilton will out perform Rotorua, is that by capital growth? excuse my ignorance it's just if I compare yields (only on properties advertised mind you) then for rental yields I find it hard to find anything in Hamilton higher than around 6% but in Rotorua I have found 8-10% (i do mean gross yields).

                    Really thankful to you all for your input.

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                    • #11
                      Below is a graph of prices with average gains per year over 26 years.
                      I'm not sure what each area is at now, however again over time they all pretty much balance out to the same, and have done for the last at least 60 years.
                      If they didn't and Dean's theory was correct, then Auckland prices would be where they are now ($700k or so) and all other places around New Zealand would be selling for way less than $50,000.
                      Auckland would continue to defy all logic and grow exponentially at 10 - 20% every year (because it is such an amazing place and keeps getting better)and all the other poor places all around in New Zealand would forever be stuck in the dark ages, with no hope and you could forever buy a property for $50,000 or less.


                      Location 1981 2007
                      Wanganui $27,070 $170,000 7.4 %p.a.
                      Masterton $30,779 $237,000 8.2 % p.a.
                      Dunedin $31,415 $260,000 8.5% p.a.
                      Timaru $31,487 $209,000 7.6% p.a.
                      New Plymouth $37,959 $305,000 8.4% p.a.
                      Christchrch $38,100 $330,000 8.6 % p.a.
                      Gisborne $38,137 $275,000 7.9% p.a.
                      Hastings $40,610 $280,000 7.8% p.a.
                      Rotorua $40,711 $240,000 7.1 % p.a.
                      Whangarei $42,415 $315,000 8.0 % p.a.
                      Hamilton $43,982 $335,000 9.0 % p.a.
                      Palmerston North $44,032 $283,000 7.5% p.a.
                      Napier $44,152 $303,000 7.7 % p.a.
                      Nelson $44,627 $320,000 7.9 % p.a.
                      Wellington $45,947 $378,000 8.5 % p.a.
                      Taupo $45,998 $380,000 8.5% p.a.
                      Tauranga $52,966 $370,000 7.8% p.a.
                      Auckland $65,579 $510,000 8.2 % p.a.

                      Quality of tenants poor in Rotorua, more crap from Dean. I had no problems with tenants I had there and know of investors with lots of properties there and don't have any problems.

                      Maybe it's just you Dean attracting bad property managers and tenants, had you ever thought that? People usually get what they expect. If you expect trouble from anywhere outside Auckland, you will get it. It doesn't mean it will be true for others.

                      Don't generalise from such a limited perspective and think that anyone or anything outside Auckland is not up to your standards or inferior, or poor quality people.
                      Facebook Property Chat Group NZ
                      https://www.facebook.com/groups/340682962758216/

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                      • #12
                        I am not particularly anti Rotorua Phoenix I have had rentals in Hamilton, Wellington, Rotorua and 40 in Auckland. It's just my personal experience and that of many of my former students and clients. Especially if you are new stick to bigger towns with population growth. Yes I am talking about growth over time but also you get closer to projected yields in better locations. Many areas have let's say 8 to 10% on paper but over time you may only get 6. In better towns and cities you might get 5 or 6% on paper but you get 4.9 to 5.9 in reality over time.

                        Plus you have to ignore Orions personal petty attacks Phoenix, he is obviously not a very happy person today.

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                        • #13
                          The only thing that I do worry about is Rotorua's growth which is why we initially chose Hamilton.
                          Forget about any growth potential of any area. You don't need it to do well.
                          Our market here in HB has gone up 10% or so in the last 12 months. It's not a good thing or a bad thing, just what is.
                          When I buy anything as a rental I assume the price of it will go down, not up.
                          And if it does go down, I still need my plan and strategy to work, which it always does regardless of prices are doing.
                          Facebook Property Chat Group NZ
                          https://www.facebook.com/groups/340682962758216/

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Damap View Post
                            I am not particularly anti Rotorua Phoenix I have had rentals in Hamilton, Wellington, Rotorua and 40 in Auckland. It's just my personal experience and that of many of my former students and clients. Especially if you are new stick to bigger towns with population growth. Yes I am talking about growth over time but also you get closer to projected yields in better locations. Many areas have let's say 8 to 10% on paper but over time you may only get 6. In better towns and cities you might get 5 or 6% on paper but you get 4.9 to 5.9 in reality over time.

                            Plus you have to ignore Orions personal petty attacks Phoenix, he is obviously not a very happy person today.
                            On the contrary Dean, I am happy every day
                            I just find it amusing that someone who has no respect at all in the property market in New Zealand, has ripped off thousands of people, ignores their messages when they want answers, hides behind a religious con, goes bankrupt several times and still hasn't learnt from it - trys to tell others how to invest wisely.
                            Facebook Property Chat Group NZ
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                            • #15
                              Keep the petty nonsense attacks going Orion, glad you are so happy.......

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