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Minimum overhang on iron roof?

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  • Minimum overhang on iron roof?

    Hi everyone.

    I've recently repaired my roof but I'm worried some of the new iron does not overhang enough.

    Please look through this photos and if there are any roofers out there is love to hear your opinion.




    Also around the chimney I don't know if the flashing is acceptable or not



    And also I found one hole which I think is on the part covering the outside patio area I believe but it still shouldn't be there really

    It seems like they did something similar here and riveted it.

    Help and advice greatly appreciated as I don't really know any roofers.

    I'm pretty sure where the overhang is short they've forgotten to put a gutter there (there used to be one there, but I'm not sure there's enough overhang even if there was a gutter there.


  • #2
    I am not a roofer, but have had plenty done. those holes are a shame its where they have missed the perlin, however they will pull out the manufacturers book and show you that they are covered under warrantee siliconed and riveted. Although that other one needs to be done still.
    The pic of overhang with your finger looks very short. I'm 99% that the rule of thumb is 50mm for roofs up to 30deg pitch and 40 above that.
    Not a fan of the corners on your chimney flashing but if you are worried then get another roofer to view. As soon as silicon is visible I'm on guard!
    good luck


    • #3
      should be enough for the gutter, only need aroumd 15-20 mm. Not 100% certain but I dont think there is a minimum distance for profiled metal (corrugated iron). E2 says 40mm for metal tiles, 50mm for masonry tiles. No distance specified for profiled metal. Those photos are not the worst roofing job ive seen. Rivet would be best with silicon.

      compliance doc link below
      relevant pages are 65, 71 or in your case 81.



      • #4
        You've had this roof done for you? Or you did it yourself?

        Overhang should be 50mm, 40mm at a MINIMUM.

        If you paid someone for the roof and they have put rivets in holes which have been drilled in the wrong spots, I would be having them back to replace it. you didn't pay for somewhat of a second hand/botched roof.

        Flashings look acceptable,lapped the correct way and riveted/siliconed as required - there's no getting around that when flashing, you can only cut and tag to the best of your ability and use silicone as assurance. Although judging by the rest of the roof, it wouldn't surprise me if these are shoddy also without seeing them in person.


        • #5
          I have had the roof done for me but I have not paid the contractor yet.

          I think what he's done besides forgetting the guttering is not allowed for the taper of the house as some of the old ones can, instead of being perfectly straight, so he's measure the shorter end and it's come up a bit short.

          I think it's a good idea to get another roofers opinion but are they the sort of people who go round giving their opinion on someone else's work for nothing? Maybe I could offer a small cash incentive for a professional opinion?

          Many thanks.


          • #6
            Also one other thing I should point out. I replaced approximately half the roof and I think we agreed that we'd keep the original ridge-cap, I didn't too much about the outcome
            But now there are holes on the top as you can see here. Now there's a flashing underneath but I'm wondering if it's a good idea or not



            • #7
              Ring the metal roofing manuafacturer association and have a chat. The have experts to advise.

              Personally I think you are making mountains out of mole hills. The sealant is there the holes should be filled. and it doesnt need a gutter