Is it cheaper to build up than out?

[nirajajoshi]

I'm just curious - as a basic principle - is it cheaper to add new space to your house by adding a second storey (or story as some say) or build out? In my case, I have enough land available to go out as well..! But I could get 2 brms instead of 1 if I go up (depending on the cost of course)!

[drelly]

Easiest question in ages. No.

[Orkibi]

It's more expensive to go up words the extending on ground level.
You will have added cost of scaffolding and possibly extra say $300-$500 per m2 on build.

[CJProperty]

Guys you have to remember that if you go up you are likey to have to put in extra piles or increase your foundations to take the extra load. Also by extending out you can still live in the property, if you go up very unlikely so you need to add temporary accommodation costs.

Cheers

[NovInvestor]

Going up means you need to strengthen your ceiling, beams, structural walsl etc, as the ceiling of a single level dwelling is never designed to take the live & dead loads of liveable areas.


Building out has none of these problems, hence I think usually it's cheaper. Also less scaffolding involved (scaffolding hire can be expensive the longer you rent it).

[eri]

when land is cheap

people build out, everything is soooo much easiser to access, repair etc. heck foundations can be just a few wooden posts in holes

going up means steel reinforced concrete foundations, vertical plumbing, elec etc.

and i hear it's now illegal to ask a worker to spend more than 5 minutes on a ladder

so health and safety, cherry-pickers, complete scaffolding etc etc etc

it's the price you pay for living where LOTS of other people want to live

[jimO]

i built up, didnt have to move out, didnt have to strengthen foundations didnt cost the earth

[muppet]

What did you use Jim.....a skyhook?

[flyernzl]

What did you use Jim.....a skyhook?

Couldn't have done that.
There are none in the country

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cessna_CH-1

[ithink]

I am also a bit conscious that having a bit more empty space for lawns/garden could possibly increase the property valuation by that much more and thus compensate the extra costs in going up. But is this all hoping against hope, I can't be sure!

[jimO]

built 2 bedrooms and a bathroom up top, existing foundations and because of the construction of original structure were more than sufficient to hold it up, all floor joists sit across 3 downstairs walls that are rimu 4x2 with sarking for bracing, stronger than any pine and gib anyday

[Janey]

I think most old solid timber houses are fine taking the load. My builder was so keen to build me another storey and talked about it for ages (only if I had the cash of course).

[ScottSI]

We went up and out on a 1950's state house with shot foundations on sand in CHCH. Cost for both sections about the same per m2. Roof same cost for both, walls, cladding etc same. No real difference in plumbing or wiring cost. Foundation / flooring was a little dearer for the 2nd storey (joists, steel & flooring) over ground level slab and boxing etc. If you go up the best way is build a steel portal structure over the existing house (less worries about old house strength) and you will be able to use some of the existing foundation (if strong enough). We just dropped 1m x 1m squares on good footing for our posts. 9 squares and foundations completed, really easy. Trick I learnt doing commercial structual steel for a while. Whole house stood up really well through the earthquakes (some even centred under our house). Friend doing this in Auckland at the moment and cheaper than strengthing existing framing. Hope that helps

[nirajajoshi]

We went up and out on a 1950's state house with shot foundations on sand in CHCH. Cost for both sections about the same per m2. Roof same cost for both, walls, cladding etc same. No real difference in plumbing or wiring cost. Foundation / flooring was a little dearer for the 2nd storey (joists, steel & flooring) over ground level slab and boxing etc. If you go up the best way is build a steel portal structure over the existing house (less worries about old house strength) and you will be able to use some of the existing foundation (if strong enough). We just dropped 1m x 1m squares on good footing for our posts. 9 squares and foundations completed, really easy. Trick I learnt doing commercial structual steel for a while. Whole house stood up really well through the earthquakes (some even centred under our house). Friend doing this in Auckland at the moment and cheaper than strengthing existing framing. Hope that helps

This surely helps, thanks ScottSI. Could you please advise me how much (sqmts) did you add on in the extension and how much on the second storey? Also, how much did it cost you per sqmt in both cases please? Hope you don't mind sharing this info. If you'd like, just PM me maybe!

Thanks!

[ScottSI]

Hi

Some info below but won't really help you sorry.

Orginal house was 90m2 and we made the place 248m2 which included the internal access garage. Garage was 46m2, house ground level was 46m2 new, upper storey was 66m2 (including 2nd level deck). the exisitig house was re gib, wired, plumbed, roofed and clad also which makes it more complex as a m2 rate. The entire job was 86K excl carpet and you would struggle to be in this number range sorry. That was the just materials, plumber, sparky and exterior plaster labour, all other labour was done by myself including drafting, consents etc.

Standard building m2 rates are now $ 1600 to $ 2500 per m2 depending on materials used and style etc. Adding just rooms cheaper than a kitchen etc.

Friend in Auckland doing 2 rooms, study, bathroom on upper level (new) and kitchen / dining extension ground level - new kitchen etc is looking about $2200 m2 for that (involves kitchen & bathroom though which is averaged out over the m2 of course).